We reached the Line of Control near Kargil after sunset. The headlights carved thin arcs of light against the cliffs, the Suru River flickering silver below, the air muted into silence. I was travelling with two Ladakhis — Ali, my driver from Leh, and his friend who was unhelpfully also called Ali, but from Kargil. To keep them straight in my head, I ha…
Longing across borders
On divided families and forgotten connections along the Line of Control
