Longing across borders

On divided families and forgotten connections along the Line of Control

We reached the Line of Control near Kargil after sunset. The headlights carved thin arcs of light against the cliffs, the Suru River flickering silver below, the air muted into silence. I was travelling with two Ladakhis — Ali, my driver from Leh, and his friend who was unhelpfully also called Ali, but from Kargil. To keep them straight in my head, I ha…