The spice that built the modern world
How the empire of pepper changed India (and my family)
“Saale!” A voice explodes down the aisle. “Abhi nahi! Khana chal raha hai!”
I look up from my book. The train conductor is red-faced, shouting at a young man with plastic bags full of chips and biscuits — an unauthorised vendor moving through the compartment like a loud ghost. Usually conducto…
